October 1, 2009 - Well planned snapshots

1/40

f5.0

ISO 800

29mm

RAW

A little more simple of a shot today. I got this while my kids were browsing around for a book to buy at their school's book fair. But even with something that looks like a snapshot still has some thought and planning behind it.

Take this shot, for instance. I cheated a little by putting the camera in 'P' mode. This mode lets the camera make all the decisions but lets me influence them. In this instance my influences were setting the camera to ISO 800 and using the fluorescent white balance. The film speed gave it enough light to properly expose the shots without using a flash, while the white balance matched the lights in the library.

Now all I had to do was follow my kids around as they looked at books. But even there I used a specific technique. In this shot, I crouched down so the camera was on the same level as my kids. This simple change in angle of view really changes the whole feel of the photo because it is as if we are seeing the world from their perspective. It's subtle, but can have a powerful effect.

As to what I would change, I wish I had a little more shutter speed. The camera was fooled a little and overexposed the shot, but I was able to dial it back down using Adobe Camera Raw adn Photoshop Elements. If the camera hadn't been fooled, however, the shutter speed would have been a little faster and maybe I wouldn't have gotten the slight motion blur in Morgan's hands.

Oh, and one more thing — why in the world are they holding the book upside down?

September 19, 2009 - Flower on a rainy day

1/25

f8

ISO 800

49mm

RAW

I am sure you have all heard about Atlanta's great flood of 2009 by now. This photo was taken two days before the flood happened. It had been raining for five straight days for a total of about seven inches so far, according to my rain gauge (a large bucket) in my front yard.

My youngest daugher, Tannah, was attending her best friend's birthday party. It was supposed to be at a petting zoo/animal ranch, but the rain had forced those plans to be canceled and the party was now at their home. When I dropped her off I saw their beautiful flowers on their front porch. I got this picture when I came back to pick her up.

The sky was completely overcast (and dark, too, because it was raining as I took this). While kind of gloomy, it offered a very even lighting. I made sure to take this in RAW format so I would have plenty of processing options later on when I loaded it into the computer. And I shot at f8 to have a good depth of field in the photo, which helped more of the flower be in focus.

I pumped up the exposure and contrast in Adobe Camera Raw, while also darkening the blacks a little bit to help keep the background dark. I didn't really like the flower in the background in the upper right, so I burned (darkened) that quite a bit to make the main flower separate from it more.

So what do you think? Overall, I think it is pleasant, but not a knock-out. The overcast skies provided even lighting, but I wouldn't consider it dynamic. I am worried I darkened the background too much and affected the overall mood of the photo. I also didn't have an umbrella as I was taking the photos, so I was a bit rushed (it wasn't a light rain!) and I didn't take my time. Ideally, I would love to find some flowers like this immediately after a storm is over with the sun coming out.

PS &mdash I would really like to know what kind of flowers these are. Anyone know?

Basic Photo Tip: Light

Light is the most basic element in photography. In fact, the word photography comes from two Greek words meaning light and writing, so it literally means writing with light. The amount of light, its intensity, and its direction can make or break a photo more than anything else, except for maybe focus.

Natural light usually provides the most pleasing, natural-looking shots. This includes direct lighting, straight from the sun, and ambient light. Ambient light is light reflected off of or shining through objects. Examples of this are light reflecting off of a wall, shiny surface, or through thin curtains. Without ambient light, objects in shadow would be completely black.

Sometimes, however, there isn’t enough natural and ambient light to take a photo. That’s when a flash comes in. The camera’s flash creates enough light to take a photo, but it usually doesn’t have much range.

Getting the exposure right for the given amount of light is critical. It can make or break a photo. For more information on exposure, see the lesson on exposure and shutter speed.

Basic Photo Tip: Exposure and shutter speed

Many of you have probably heard the term exposure before. But what is it exactly? It is the total amount of light that falls on the camera’s film or digital sensor while taking a photo. Too much light and the photo will be over-exposed, making the shot too bright with little detail because features will be washed out. Too little light and the photo will be too dark, making it difficult to make out the details.

A properly exposed shot will have a great range of light, allowing you to see detail in the shadows along with highlights in bright areas. A really good example of this is in wedding photography. The right exposure will let you see the details in the groom’s black tuxedo but also see the lines and patterns in the bride’s white wedding gown.


In the past, photographers usually had to draw upon their experience to determine what exposure to use. But thanks to advancements in technology, all modern cameras have light meter built in to eliminate the guess work.

Thanks to this tool, your camera will generally pick the right settings to properly expose your photo. But it’s not fool proof. See the lesson on exposure compensation for an explanation of how it works will help you pick the right exposure when your camera doesn’t.

But just because your camera can pick the right exposure doesn’t mean the photo will come out right. You also need to pay attention to your shutter speed. If it gets too slow, then you will risk moving the camera while taking the photo. This is normally called camera shake.

With a normal, non-telephoto lens, you need a shutter speed of 1/60 of a second to guarantee there won’t be any camera shake. That is why when a flash is needed, most cameras will set the flash intensity to be strong enough to get a photo at 1/60 of a second.

However, if you practice good technique while holding the camera, you can often get a sharp clear image free of camera shake all the way down to 1/30 of a second. Good technique means you stand with your feet spread comfortably apart, with two hands holding the camera, your elbows resting on your chest, and holding your breath. It may also help to lean your body against a wall or post.

If you use a tripod, however, you can go with long shutter speeds and not worry about camera shake. The tripod will keep the camera stationary, allowing you to get outstanding, clear photos even with exposure times reaching into several seconds.

But what about those times when you don’t have a tripod, or your subject is moving and long exposures won’t work? The lesson on aperture and ISO speeds has your answer.

Basic Photo Tip: Aperture and ISO speeds

So you have a great shot to take, but you don’t have a fast enough shutter speed. What can you do without using your flash? There are actually two options – open up your aperture or change your film speed.

So what’s your aperture? The aperture refers to a numerical representation of how wide the lens opening is inside the lens. On all SLR and most point-and-shoot digital cameras, you can open or close your aperture to let more light or less through.

Many people think a lens has only one fixed opening for how much light gets through. But that is not true. The vast majority of cameras (some point-and-shoot film cameras being the lone exception here) have the ability to change the lens’ aperture and let more light through. This is commonly called the f-stop of a lens. The bigger the opening, the more light comes through, and the faster the shutter speed can be.

Similarly, you can change the film speed and get the same results. The higher the film speed, the more reactive to light the film or sensor is, and the faster the shutter speed can be.

This is where one of the biggest strengths of digital cameras comes in. Whereas with film cameras you can change the film speed only by changing the whole roll of film for a new one, with digital you can change the film speed through a camera setting. So if you are shooting at 100 ISO film speed and you notice it is getting a little dark, you can change a digital camera to 200 ISO in between shots and keep going. ISO 200 film is twice as reactive to light as 100 ISO, so it will double your shutter speed.

That is the key to understanding exposure. Being able to double your shutter speed is called one stop of exposure. Therefore, going from 1/125 of a second to 1/250 is one stop, going from 1/125 to 1/500 is two stops, and going from 1/125 to 1/1000 is three stops.

Keeping track of stops with shutter speeds is very simple. Aperture values, on the other hand, are more complex. They start with a very low number (like f2.0) and go up, but not in a scale you would think as logical. A f2 aperture setting creates a large opening in the lens and lets in a lot of light. A f2.8 aperture lets in half of the light as f2, and therefore is one stop less. Two stops less light will be f4, and f5.6 would be three stops less.

Below is a scale showing all of the normal shutter speeds and aperture values, set one stop apart. If your camera was saying that a photo will be properly exposed at 1/125 of a second with an aperture set to f8, then all of the settings below will result in exactly the same exposure.

Shutter	1/15	1/30	1/60	1/125	1/250	1/500
Aperture	f22	f16	f11	f8	f5.6	f4
ISO	100	100	100	100	100	100

Similarly, if you changed your film speed between shots, all of these would result in the same exposure, too.

Shutter	1/15	1/30	1/60	1/125	1/250	1/500
Aperture	f8	f8	f8	f8	f8	f8
ISO	100	200	400	800	1600	3200

Do you see the relationship? As your shutter speed goes up, your aperture value needs to go down. The opposite is also true. As your aperture value goes up, your shutter speed will go down. The key here is to remember that the higher the aperture value, the smaller the lens opening and the less light goes through to expose the photo.

Basic Photo Tip: Exposure compensation

In the vast majority of photos, if you took all of the colors in the photo (when properly exposed) and swirled them all together, it would come out as a medium grey. They call this 18% grey. The light meter in your camera is designed to expose your photos to match 18% grey.

Most of the time this works with fantastic results. It is simply amazing that such a basic idea works out 80% of the time. However, there are a few instances when 18% grey won't work.

If you have an overly bright photo, like kids playing in the snow, your shot will likely have grey-colored snow. If the photo is overly dark, like a close-up of three Oakland Raiders in their black home uniforms, your shot will likely have grey uniforms and overexposed faces. The 18% grey is the culprit in both situations.

You can get past this problem by using the exposure compensation setting on your camera. Most cameras have it, even point-and-shoots. It allows you to add or subtract exposure from your shot.

By adding in one to two stops* of extra exposure in your shot of snow, everything should turn out looking bright and white. Similarly, by subtracting one to two stops of exposure in the close-up of the Raiders players, the uniforms should be brought down to their usual black.

You may need to experiment a little with what works best in each of your photo taking situations. Just don’t forget to dial that exposure compensation back to zero when you are done, or you will likely regret it the next time you pull out your camera!

*for information about what a stop is, see the lesson on aperture and ISO speeds.